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TEA
THE DIVINE MEDICINE
I
am speaking here about TEA, camellia sinensis or closely
related varietals, what in Chinese or Japanese is called
cha. Green and black tea both come from this same plant.
Unfortunately, in English the word "Tea" is
imprecise and may mean any herbal infusion, such as peppermint
or chamomile "tea." I am using the term Tea
only in the specialized Asian sense.
According
to Chinese medicine, tea clears the mind, circulates the
qi, and strengthens the internal organs. Scientists have
found positive immune-enhancing and cardiovascular effects
for all kinds of tea.
There
are five kinds of tea:
White
Tea: the lightest tea, made from downy buds
Green Tea: the natural leaf, green and refreshing
Oolong Tea: a beautiful reddish-green slightly
oxidized leaf, with subtle hues of flavor
Black Tea: fully oxidized, red leaf with
robust flavor-- a more stimulating beverage
Pu Erh: an older varietal black tea, aged
like wine, with earthy tones
- Interesting
Tea Facts:
- Tea
contains a chemical that inhibits tumor growth.
The National Cancer Institute has published articles
on the cancer-preventive effects of tea.
- Research
shows that tea lowers cholesterol and normalizes
blood sugar.
- Tea
is anti-bacterial and helps prevent cavities.
- Tea
is a powerful anti-oxidant and anti-aging medicine
(200X more potent than vitamin E).
- Tea
is low in caffeine-like chemicals; green tea has
approximately 1/5 the stimulant of coffee.
- Tea
has an amino acid that calms the mind. If you are
anxious or stressed, drink some tea and contemplate
the beauty of nature. Drinking tea is meditation.
We
advise that you drink only single estate teas, grown with
pride on a single plantation. Unlike machine harvested
commercial teas, fine teas are gathered by hand (2,000
pickings to make a pound), the quality of each leaf carefully
checked. To vary the flavor, leaves may be dried, steamed,
roasted, curled, rolled, pressed, twisted, or folded.
Of course, the quality of the soil and natural elements
greatly affects the quality of the leaf. Imagine the difference
between tea grown on a steep mountain side, where pickers
must be as agile as monkeys (such teas are called "monkey
picked") compared to tea that soaks up light and
mist from the ocean. Some monasteries maintain their own
tea gardens, their ancient plants stimulated by the sounds
of the temple bells and chanting monks.
Kenneth
Cohen offers tea lectures and tastings for private groups,
tea-houses, and conferences:
THE
WAY OF TEA:
HEALTH, PEACE, AND CULTURE
Join
author Ken Cohen for an exciting and entertaining introduction
to the art of Chinese Tea. He will discuss the early legends
and history of Tea, including the relationship of tea
to meditation. Ken will cover the basics: what are the
differences between the five kinds of tea: white, green,
oolong, black, and pu erh? How do you prepare a delicious
cup of tea? Learn about the effects of water quality,
teaware, and even the method of pouring hot water. We
will discover how drinking tea can lead to a life of taste
in widest sense-- a life of leisure, grace, and refinement.
Ken will also share cutting edge research that shows how
tea may prevent heart disease, cancer, diabetes, and osteoporosis.
Ken
Cohen, former student of Alan Watts and Joseph Campbell,
has followed the Way of Tea for more than 30 years, including
many years teaching the Japanese Tea Ceremony. A China
scholar and health educator, he has written about Tea
for Chanoyu Magazine, Yoga Journal, Alternative Medicine,
and many other journals. Ken lives in a cabin at 9,000
ft. elevation in the Colorado Rockies, where he enjoys
sipping tea while listening to the music of "wind
in the pines."
TEA
TIPS
Brewing
Basics
- Use
good water. Pure spring water is preferred.
Heat water in a stainless steel or pyrex kettle, never
aluminum or copper. Be sure that tea equipment and
utensils (kettle, teapot, thermos, cups, etc.) do not
have the scent of coffee or any other substance!
- Use
fully boiled water for black and pu erh teas; very
hot water for oolongs (approx. 180-190o F.); and very
warm water for green or "white" teas (160-170o
F.). Hot water can scald and destroy the flavor of
white or green teas. Tea is a plant, and like any plant
it can be cooked. Fresh picked white or green tea should
be steeped in a way that releases its refreshing flavor.
Don't use hot water and cook it!
- Always
add tea leaves with a wooden spoon (or, if necessary,
a metal spoon). For flavor and cleanliness, do not
use your hands to scoop tea!
- Although
the general rule is 1 tsp. of tea leaves per cup of
water, this can vary quite a bit. With experience,
you will discover just the right amount of tea leaves
to make a delicious cup of tea.
- Brew
tea leaves loose, so they may open and release their
flavor. Never use an infuser or tea ball with good
tea leaves. Never stir tea!
- Enjoy
the appearance, color, scent, and taste of the Tea!
Three
Ways to Prepare Tea
- A.
Western Style
- Use
a ceramic teapot (try the classic "Brown Betty").
- Preheat
the teapot with hot water. Pour in; pour out.
- Always
place leaves in the pot before adding the water
for brewing: approx. 1 tsp. of tea leaves./ 8 oz.
of water + "1 for the pot". For example
in a 4 cup capacity teapot use 5 tsp. tea leaves.
More or less to taste.
- Brew
for 3 to 5 minutes.
-
Pour tea directly into guests' cups. If you are
using small or finely cut tea leaves, you may pour
tea through a strainer.
- Pour
off any remaining tea in a decanter to prevent oversteeping;
this is especially important with oolong or black
teas, as they can become very bitter.
- Re-steep
as necessary, adding about 30 seconds to each steeping.
- You
can use the same leaves for three steepings.
- You
may reuse the same tea leaves within a 3 hr. time
period. Never drink day old tea.
- B.
Everyday Chinese Style
- Use
a ceramic cup, ideally with a lid. White interior
color is best to highlight the color of the tea.
One of the best ways to enjoy the tea experience
is by drinking from a specially shaped Chinese ceramic
cup called a gaiwan.
- Preheat
the cup.
- Place
1-3 tsp. of tea leaves in an 8 oz. cup. The amount
of tea leaves depends on the weight of the tea rather
than its volume. For example, because white Silver
Needle Tea is very light (in weight), you may add
2-3 tsp. per cup. Tieh Guanyin, a famous oolong,
is relatively heavy, requiring between 1 and 2 tsp.
per cup.
- Steep
for approx. 2-3 minutes, checking for ideal taste
and color. For green and white teas, leave the cup
uncovered while steeping. For other teas, cover
the cup. A Chinese Secret: when tea leaves have
sunk to the bottom of a tall mug-style cup and left
their color behind, the tea is ready.
- Add
approx. 30 seconds to each successive steeping,
up to 3 times total.
C.
Gong Fu Tea: The Finest Way to Prepare Tea. Adapted
from Kenneth Cohen's book, The Way of Qigong.
Gong
Fu is more than martial arts. It means a high level of
skill in any activity, achieved through practice. Gong
Fu Tea is appropriate for preparing oolong, black, and
pu erh teas, but is generally not advised for white or
green teas.
Utensils: The most important utensil is a small ceramic
teapot, somewhere between the size of an orange and a
grapefruit-- enough to hold one or two cups of water.
The very best is Chinese Yi Xing Ware, from the town of
Yi Xing in Jiangsu Province. The Yi Xing red clay (zi
sha) has been used to make teapots since at least 1500.
The pots are generally unglazed to display the subtle
earth tones of the clay and to allow seasoning of the
pot. Use your Yi Xing pot with only one type of tea: that
is, make only oolong, black, or pu erh teas in a particular
pot. Yi Xing ware holds the warmth, flavor, and qi of
tea like no other utensil. Yi Xing teapots are sometimes
available through the Qigong Research & Practice Center
or at Asian art and tea shops.
Other
utensils needed: some small shot-glass size tea cups (Japanese
porcelain sake cups are perfect), a ceramic cup to use
as a decanter, a flat-bottomed bowl (the "tea boat")
large enough for the Yi Xing teapot to sit in, and a cloth
to wipe up any spilled liquids.
- The
Essential Steps:
- Thoroughly
scald the cups and the outside of the tea pot with
hot water.
- Fill
the pot about half-way with tea leaves. Always use
a spoon, preferably wooden, to put in the tea, never
your hands! (The oil from your hands can affect
the taste and freshness of tea.) With practice,
you will learn the right amount of leaves to use,
so that when they expand they will not block the
spout.
- Pour
in enough hot water to cover the leaves, and immediately
pour this out as waste water. That's right. The
first time you add water is only to release flavor
from the leaves. Now you are ready to make tea.
- Fill
the pot with hot water (at a temperature appropriate
for the type of tea). Put the lid on, place the
tea pot in the tea boat (the bowl), and pour more
hot water over the lid to seal in the heat. The
bowl catches the hot water, forming a small pool
that keeps the pot hot-- a natural tea cozy.
- Steep
the tea for a total of about one minute. When the
tea is ready, pick up the tea pot and make some
leisurely counter-clockwise circles with it a few
inches above the rim of the tea boat. This will
mix the liquid and ensure that there is a harmonious
infusion of tea flavor and color.
- Line
up the guests' tea cups, so they are touching. Pour
the tea back and forth among the cups until they
are all filled. (Otherwise, the cups will have an
uneven color and flavor with the last cup, served
from the bottom of the pot, being too strong.) To
prevent over-steeping pour the remaining tea from
the teapot into the decanter. Or, after the tea
is steeped, you may pour it immediately into the
decanter and serve tea from it.
As
you and your guests drink tea, pour more hot water into
the pot. Steep for about 15 seconds longer than the first
steeping. Then repeat the procedure for pouring tea. Each
time you add more hot water to the pot, it can steep a
bit longer, though never more than three minutes.
When
you make tea this way--a very tiny tea pot with a large
amount of leaves, steeped for a very brief period--you
can keep infusing the tea from six to twelve times (depending
on quality of the tea) before flavor is lost. This is
a simple, elegant way to drink tea.
Clean
your Yi Xing pot with water promptly after use. Never
scour or use soap.
Discover
your Inner Tea Master:
These steps are not "rules." Unlike Japanese
Tea Ceremony (described later in this site), the choreography
of gong fu tea varies from practitioner to practitioner.
The important thing is making a delicious cup of tea in
a way that pleases you and your guests.
- Storing
Tea
- Most
teas retain full flavor for approximately one year.
However, pu erh teas are aged like fine wine and
have an unlimited shelf life.
- Avoid
moisture, light, and heat. (Though some humidity
may be good for pu erhs, as they continue to age.)
- Store
tea in an opaque container with a tight sealing
lid-- ceramic ware is best, otherwise stainless
steel.
- Store
in a cool place. Green teas keep longer when refrigerated.
Why Is Tea So Expensive?
It's not! Teas vary greatly in price. Pu Erh teas, averaging
$20 per pound, cost you 1.4 cents per cup. It is reasonable,
however, to pay $100- $300 for a pound of good quality
green or oolong, that is, approximately a year's supply,
of good tea. You are spending only 14 cents per cup. Now,
try an experiment. Go to the supermarket and look at a
box of typical American teabags. Look at the net weight
of the actual tea, and calculate what you are spending
per ounce. People who buy this product are probably spending
more for their tasteless brew-- tea that is cut by machine,
mixed with substandard teas from various continents, and
generally considered unfit for human consumption in their
country of origin!
Peace
in a Cup of Tea
© Kenneth S. Cohen
originally published in Alternative Medicine, January
2006
"A
cup of tea is a cup of peace." These words were spoken
to me some thirty years ago by Soshitsu Sen XV, descendent
of the sixteenth century founder of the Japanese Tea Ceremony.
I was a beginner in Japanese Tea Ceremony, and it has
taken me a long time to realize the depth in that simple
sentence. I believe that Sen was talking about far more
than mental tranquillity or the biological effects of
theanine, the mood-altering amino acid concentrated in
green tea. He was speaking about tea as a Tao, a path
in life, a way to realize peace in every aspect of one's
life-- in one's own mind, with one's family and community,
and as a communion that can bring peace in the world.
A cup of tea is a celebration of the mystery of the ordinary,
beauty found in the simplicity of the everyday. After
thirty years practicing this beautiful art perhaps I am
finally an advanced beginner.
Thirty
years to learn how to drink tea? You've got to be kidding.
Let me put this in context. A student of a great Japanese
tea master spent more than ten years perfecting the choreography--
how to clean the utensils, handle the tea bowl, whisk
the powdered tea, arrange the flowers, even how to bow.
One day he asked his teacher to reveal the deepest secrets
in Tea Ceremony. The master explained, "First you
boil the water, then prepare the tea, then drink it. That
is all." The student looked disappointed and somewhat
perplexed. The master continued, "Show me someone
who can truly do these things, and I will become their
disciple." This is the challenge of Tea, and it is
the challenge of life. How can we be so present that we
perform each action with our whole body, mind, and spirit?
Normally, when we do one thing, part of us is doing something
else. We reach for the pot of soup, but the body is so
disorganized that we tense our jaws more than our arms.
We decide to sit "quietly" for a few minutes
but our minds are alternating between the shopping list
and the morning news. As multitasking is extolled as a
virtue, we lose the deep satisfaction that comes of doing
one thing truly well.
But
the repercussions of complexity go beyond this. A person
who cannot be truly attentive communicates confusion.
"What you are speaks so loudly," said Emerson,
"I cannot hear what you are saying." Through
a kind of energetic contagion -- scientist Rupert Sheldrake's
"morphogenetic field"--many of us feel compelled
to a life of haste and waste. At some unconscious level
we may believe that not-doing, leisure, and -- dare I
say it-- loafing!-- are sins against society. Tea is the
antidote. By slowing down, we become aware of beauty and
capable of creating beauty around us. "Slowness is
beauty," said the artist Rodin. I am not talking
about beauty only in clothes, complexion, and home design,
but beauty in every aspect of life. Yes, it is possible.
As the Navajo Indians say in their prayer, "Beauty
above, beauty below, beauty before me, beauty behind me,
beauty all around." A commitment to beauty includes
speaking and behaving with care and respect and preserving
the beauty of the natural world, not by keeping some areas
pristine and sacrificing other regions to industrial waste,
but by considering the entire world our home.
Tea
is ultimately an exercise in awareness. It assures awareness
far more certainly than a Zen Master checking the posture
and presence of seated monks. A chajin (tea person) whose
mind wanders spoils the tea, and the guests can taste
it. Tea is more than a cup of peace; it is a cup of your
deepest Self. As Tea Master Rikyu (1520-1591) said, "When
water is ladled from the depths of Mind, whose bottom
is beyond measure, then we really have what is called
Tea Ceremony."
An
Invitation to Japanese Tea Ceremony
The mood in the tearoom is rustic simplicity-- tatami
(bamboo) mats, wooden posts, gentle light passing through
rice paper screens, perhaps only candlelight. The air
has just a hint of the woodsy and peaty scent of aloeswood
incense. The cast iron brazier and kettle rest on a tile
on the tatami. The water is simmering over glowing charcoal
embers in the brazier, making a prolonged "shu,"
like the sound of the wind in pine trees. In the corner
alcove hangs a calligraphy to suggest through style and
meaning the mood for the day. Today, it consists of two
Chinese characters in a cursive script that makes the
words look like flowing water. They say qing feng, "pure,
fresh breeze," reminiscent of the Zen Buddhist saying,
"At every step, a pure breeze rises."
Two
or three guests enter the room one by one and sit on a
mat facing the brazier. The host enters the room and bows
low with the guests, a way of yielding to a mystery. In
the tea room there is no high or low, only Buddha bowing
to Buddha. She gradually brings the tea utensils into
the room: sweet crispy wafers to complement the bitterness
of the tea-- yin and yang, sweet and bitter like life--,
a jar filled with cold water, the fine glazed teabowl,
lacquered tea caddie, bamboo teascoop, bamboo whisk, bamboo
ladle, and metal waste water container. Once all of the
utensils are on the mat, she sits for a moment of silence,
a space in which host and guest tune in to each other
and create a foundation for harmony.
Next
she removes the fukusa, orange silk napkin, from her sash
and folds it in a specific manner that communicates grace
and efficiency. She uses the fukusa to lightly clean the
tea caddie and tea scoop, cleansing at the same time all
dust from her mirror mind. Host and guest share a common
goal: to open the senses and perceive without preconception,
like a mirror that, itself colorless, can reflect all
colors. Next, the hostess uses the tea scoop to lift out
two small scoops of the powdered natural green tea. The
guests notice the beautiful pattern left behind in the
caddie. The tea which had been shaped like a mountain
in the center or the caddie now, with two scoops removed,
looks like sheer green cliffs. The hostess gently ladles
water into the teabowl and then whisks it into a jade
froth. The bowl is served to the first guest, who bows
first with the guest who has not yet had tea and then
with the hostess. The guest sips the tea and notices how
as the tea disappears he can see more and more of the
inside of the bowl. Finishing the last bit of tea with
a slurp-- to complement the hostess- he then turns the
bowl slowly in his hands to appreciate its color, size,
and texture. He returns the bowl to the hostess, who cleans
it and prepares tea for the next guest, until all have
enjoyed the tea.
"Please
finish the ceremony," says the last guest with a
bow. The hostess cleans the utensils then ladles cool
water into the simmering kettle. Suddenly the room is
completely quiet. The hostess takes the teabowl and other
utensils out of the room. At the end she turns, kneels,
and bows with the guests. The guests are once again in
an empty room, savoring the tranquillity.
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